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Family Travel Experts: Florida's Natural Playground
Florida's Natural Playground
Question We love Florida, but we've done the theme park thing to death! Any place to go and enjoy the outdoors in Florida and the natural, not man-made, attractions? Our kids are ages seven and nine, and very active.

Answer Oh, yeah! Happily, there are still places in the Sunshine State where you can get a taste of Old Florida, in all its steamy, tropical, mangrove-tangled glory. Plus, if your bunch likes to camp, you can stay ultra-cheap, and be lulled to sleep by the sound of surf lapping against sand. Heavenly.

Some of our favorite natural playgrounds are on Florida's gulf (west) coast. Myakka River State Park (call 941-361-6511), in Sarasota, boasts great scenery, cool wildlife and lots to do. Nearly 40 miles of loop hiking trails meander through shady live oak and palm hammocks, piney woods and prairies, and alongside marshes teeming with life. Bring your bikes, or rent them there and cruise along North Park Drive. (We'd steer clear of Main Drive if the park is busy.) You can also paddle a canoe in the Myakka River, but beware: some super-sized gators live in the waters. Amazingly, you'll see fisherfolk standing in the river; alligators generally don't go after people. Go on a narrated airboat ride and learn all about the gators, turkey vultures and other resident wildlife. Tent and RV-camping is available here, but be sure to reserve up to 11 months in advance.

We swore we wouldn't tell a soul about Cayo Costa--it's that magical, and a bit of a secret; even people who live an hour away haven't heard of it. But, here goes: Cayo Costa is one of Florida's largest, unspoiled barrier islands and is 12 miles west of Cape Coral. To get there, you drive to Pine Island, then take a ferry from Bokeelia. Once there, pitch your tent on powdered-sugar sand, and spend the day playing in the warm waters of the Gulf of Mexico, shelling or fishing for redfish, trout and snapper. The next day, rent a kayak and paddle around the island to a manatee hole, or make it a real adventure and paddle to an underground "tunnel" of overhanging red mangroves, where a single kayak can barely fit through the primordial tangle. At the end, you'll reach an awesome, unpeopled beach. Hike around the island and look for bald eagles, gopher tortoises, even wild pigs. Be sure to bring your own food and fishing gear--there's no store here, just grills and picnic tables. Besides the campsites, there are a few rustic cabins. Call (941) 964-0375 for reservations and info. Cayo Costa is a state park, staffed by rangers.

Also, check out Cedar Key, a wonderful old fishing village, set alongside a wildlife refuge. Cal 352-543-5600 for information.

Please keep in mind that phone numbers, addresses and prices are subject to change. Originally published in November 2000. Updated June 2006.

Diane Bair and Pamela Wright have worked as a travel-writing team since 1988, when their first book, FUN PLACES TO GO WITH CHILDREN IN NEW ENGLAND was published. The Bair-Wright team has gone on to write more than a dozen more books, including ADVENTURE NEW ENGLAND: AN OUTDOOR VACATION GUIDE and WILD ENCOUNTERS: THE BEST ANIMAL-WATCHING ADVENTURES IN THE U.S. They are frequent contributors to several national magazines, including FAMILYFUN, BETTER HOMES & GARDENS, BACKPACKER, TRAVELAMERICA, PARENTING and NEW ENGLAND TRAVEL & LIVING. Bair and Wright are based in a 200-year-old brownstone in the seaport town of Newburyport, Massachusetts.
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