Bordered on three sides by water (the Atlantic Ocean, Nantucket Sound, and the aptly named Pleasant Bay), Chatham has an easy island feel you won't find anywhere else on Cape Cod. This hamlet of gray-shingled houses, brilliant gardens, and green salt marshes has long drawn its sustenance (and considerable charm) from the sea. And despite an annual influx of some 25,000 summer visitors, it still feels like the close-knit fishing village it's been since the 18th century. Eight years ago, my family was attracted to Chatham's central location (it makes a great base for exploring the Cape). But over the years, we've found ourselves spending more time in and around town, enjoying the area's abundance of old-fashioned pleasures.
They begin, appropriately enough, with beach-going. Family favorites include Ridgevale Beach, with its thriving tide pools, Lighthouse Beach, offering first-rate views and brisk, inviting water, and the unparalleled South Beach. Accessible by a sandbar or by boat, this slender spit of sand is the place to go if you want a break from the sometimes crowded inner beaches (Outermost Harbor Marine; 508-945-5858; Outer Most Harbor.)
Given Chatham's history and location, fishing is another one of its main attractions. The municipal fish pier on Shore Road is a favorite gathering place for families, who crowd its elevated observation platform in the late afternoon to watch commercial fishermen unload their glistening quarry. If you're in the mood to cook your own, the Nickerson Fish & Lobsters market is but an oyster's throw from the pier and offers some of the freshest seafood around. Of course, nothing tastes as good as dinner you've caught yourself, which is one of the reasons kids (and parents) flock to the Bridge Street Bridge, rods and reels in hand. It was here, overlooking the tranquil Mitchell River inlet, that my 12-year-old daughter, Lily, learned to cast and came to understand the true meaning of patience.
Families looking for sea life of a different variety can set a course for Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge. This 7,604-acre string of uninhabited barrier islands off Chatham's southeastern shore is home to tidal flats, emerald marshes, and freshwater ponds that support a diverse population of waterfowl and migratory birds. But what draws us back time and again are the seals, best viewed on a guided cruise (offered by several outfitters, including Chatham Water Tours; 508-432-5895; Chatham Water Tours). On our last trip, we came upon a stretch of sand with dozens of seals lolling, diving, and making a happy racket. Some of them even swam up to the boat, motivated by curiosity or, as Lily was convinced, hospitality.
Closer in, Chatham offers a combination of natural beauty and small-town charm. Protected saltwater beaches and undulating marshes (some with wooden footbridges) ring the town. When you get a yen to dry off, you won't find a better place to do it than in the bustling village center. Lily always insists that we start our stroll at the Ben Franklin, an old-fashioned variety store selling everything from beach gear to craft supplies. And somehow we inevitably find ourselves at the Chatham Candy Manor (508-945-0825) for penny candy and, Lily's favorite, chocolate-covered Oreos. When we need to refuel, we usually duck into Carmine's (508-945-5300) for great pizza or the pubby Chatham Squire (508-945-0945), a village institution that's one of our favorite spots for dinner (go early to avoid rowdy crowds). And, if the schedule's right, we end our day at nearby Veterans Field watching the Chatham Athletics battle one of nine other teams in the Cape Cod Baseball League. If you go, pay close attention. The league is manned by some of college baseball's brightest prospects, so you might just spot a star in the making (a fair number of Major League luminaries, including Frank Thomas and Nomar Garciaparra, got their start on the Cape). But for us, the best part of the game is the opportunity it affords to immerse ourselves in the day-to-day of Chatham. Munching popcorn in a folding chair or jostling for a foul ball in the bleachers, you can't help but feel that you've discovered the essence of small-town summer life.
Shore Bets--Area Hot Spots you Don't Want to Miss!
At Larry's P.X., you'll find hearty breakfast fare, plus a little bit of everything else, including maps and toys (508-945-3964).
For fried clams and no-frills fish meals, head to Seafood Sam's in nearby Harwich Port (508-432-1422).
We love the ice cream at Short 'n' Sweet, located in an old schoolhouse (508-432-7464).
The Cape Cod Rail Trail, a smoothly paved bike path stretching for 25 miles along a former rail bed, affords breathtaking vistas and some of the best picnic sites on the Cape. After renting bikes at Cape Cod Rail Trail Bike & Blade (508-896-8200; Rail Trail Bike Shop) in Brewster, we like to head next door to Box Lunch Brewster (508-896-1234) for wrap-style sandwiches to go.
Although Ridgevale Beach is our favorite, when it's time to surf, we head for Nauset Light Beach in nearby Eastham.
The compact Chatham Railroad Museum has a hands-on telegraph and a caboose you can explore (no phone; call the Chatham Chamber at 508-945-5199).
Named for the black cat that graces its sign, Marley's restaurant has an outdoor garden and a homestyle menu (508-945-1700).
In the evenings, the Chatham Bakery serves up baby back ribs and pulled-pork sandwiches, to eat in or take out (508-945-3229).
At low tide, the tide pools at Brewster flats in nearby Brewster stretch for more than a mile into Cape Cod Bay (Cape Cod Bay.)
Lodging options: The Chatham Seafarer has large rooms starting at $135 nightly for four (800-786-2772; Chatham Seafarer.) The Chatham Highlander offers two outdoor pools and spacious rooms for four starting at $100 nightly (508-945-9038; Cape Cod Travel.) Our favorite: The Moorings, a shingled bed-and-breakfast with colorful gardens (a room with two beds, a kitchen, and a porch goes for $145 nightly; 800-320-0845; Moorings Cape Cod.) For weekly rentals, check out Sylvan Vacation Rentals (508-945-7222; Sylvan Rentals) and Pine Acres Realty (508-945-7443; Pine Acres Realty.)
Bordered on three sides by water (the Atlantic Ocean, Nantucket Sound, and the aptly named Pleasant Bay), Chatham has an easy island feel you won't find anywhere else on Cape Cod. This hamlet of gray-shingled houses, brilliant gardens, and green salt marshes has long drawn its sustenance (and considerable charm) from the sea. And despite an annual influx of some 25,000 summer visitors, it still feels like the close-knit fishing village it's been since the 18th century. Eight years ago, my family was attracted to Chatham's central location (it makes a great base for exploring the Cape). But over the years, we've found ourselves spending more time in and around town, enjoying the area's abundance of old-fashioned pleasures.
