Using the basic roll instructions, substitute in any of the following. But be forewarned: the small sushi rolls work best with only two fillings, three if you include the scallions. Here are some suggestions:

VEGETABLES

• Avocados: Carefully cut in half, going around pit. When separated, cut out pit, and then cut into fourths. By this point, you should be able to peel the avocado, but if the skin is tough, you might need to cut into eighths. Proceed to cut into narrow strips.

• Tomatoes: Medium ripe plum tomatoes work best. Cut off top, cut in half lengthwise, lay flat on board and cut into strips.

• Scallions: You can use just the green, white or both. Cut off bottom and any frayed tops and mince very fine.

• Cucumbers: Peel. Cut in half, and then in quarters. Cut out seeds. Cut each quarter into strips. If they are very wide and rectangular, you may want to make another lengthwise cut. Adjust length to fit size of rolls, if necessary.

• Red peppers: Cut out core and remove white veins. Cut into narrow strips--much narrower than you probably use in salads or other dishes.

OTHER FILLINGS

• Plum Paste (umeboshi): Available in the same stores as the other sushi ingredients, often near the wasabi. For a sharp, sweet taste, use the same way as wasabi, putting a light smear across the rice before laying down the fillings.

• Smoked Salmon: Choose your favorite: Norwegian smoked, Scotch smoked, lox, etc., though you probably wouldn't want to stick the more expensive fish into sushi rolls. Cut into narrow strips.

• Cooked Fish: Salmon is a good bet, but whitefish and fresh tuna are also commonly used. You can cook plain or marinate for an hour or two in a zipper bag with teriyaki sauce. Broiling for about 10 minutes per inch of thickness is a good rule of thumb, flipping about half way through, but ovens vary widely. After cooking, peel off any skin. For flakier fishes like salmon, the easiest thing to do is gently mash into little pieces, which will lay out neatly in the rolls. Meatier fishes can be cut into thin slices.

Tips:

If you're willing to let your kids handle these tasks, they can get to know a wide variety of produce and the special challenges and properties that each one presents.

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• Sushi Fillings