An Armenian Christmas Sweet Soup

As a little girl growing up in the Armenian community in Cairo, Egypt, Maro Balanian used to help her mother create the color green. At the New Year, all the world was dry and brown, so Armenian families would sprinkle chickpea, lentil, and wheat seeds into small bowls filled with moistened cotton balls. In a few days, fresh sprouts would appear. Whenever friends and family came over, the tiny green wisps would be placed in the middle of the table. Then, steaming bowls of anoush abour, or sweet soup, would be served in hope of a new, green year, Maro says.

"We were Christians in an Islamic country, so our celebrations were held inside," Maro recalls. "My mother would create 'flowers' of walnuts and almonds on top of the sweet soup. And with the green sprouts at the center of the table, it was so pretty." Maro and her husband, Ohan, son, Ashod, and daughter, Lorig, both in their teens, still eat anoush abour every Christmas and New Year. "My family still plants seeds in cotton balls, too," says Maro, "in remembrance of my mother."

Anoush Abour

7 cups hulled wheatberries*
14 cups water
5 cups sugar
2 cups golden raisins
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 cups walnuts
2 cups blanched, slivered almonds
Cinnamon to sprinkle on top

*Available in Armenian specialty stores and in most health food stores.

In a large pot, bring the wheat and the water to a boil, remove from heat and soak overnight. By the next morning, the wheat should have doubled in size.

Cook over very low heat, adding the sugar until nearly all the water is absorbed (it should have the consistency of porridge). Stir in the raisins and the vanilla extract. Divide into small bowls and decorate with walnuts and almonds arranged to look like petals. Sprinkle with cinnamon. Makes 8 servings.

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