ST. JOHN, U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS
When my daughter, Callaway, was 4 years old, I asked her what she wanted to be when she grew up. "A turtle," she replied. Callaway loved turtles. So when our family traveled to the tiny Caribbean island of St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands, I secretly hoped we might catch a glimpse of a sea turtle. Happily, my hope was fulfilled: we spent every day of our vacation swimming alongside these majestic creatures. And, like many of our activities, it didn't cost us a penny. Here's how we pulled off a great trip on a tight budget. (See Resources for all contact information.)
A wallet-friendly place to stay: We adored Maho Bay Camps, an eco-friendly and, at $165 a night in the wintertime, reasonably priced alternative to the large hotels in Cruz Bay, which will set you back roughly $250 to $650 a night. The camp's canvas tent cottages aren't luxurious, but our kids wouldn't have wanted to stay anyplace else -- it was as close as they'll get to bunking Swiss Family Robinson-style. Each cottage has twin beds, a couch, and if requested, a cot. Linens are provided, along with a propane stove, pots and pans, dishes, and utensils. Shared bathhouses have toilets, sinks, and cold-water showers. (If you have a little more to spend, you could try Maho's apartments, which have private baths and range from $215 to $240 a night.)
Another great option for budget travelers is the Cinnamon Bay Campground, run by the National Park Service, where tents start at $114 a night.
A reduced-rate ride: Several airlines fly directly to St. Thomas, the closest island, but there's no airport on St. John. So after you land, you'll take a 45-minute taxi ride to the dock in Red Hook ($10 per person, plus $2 per bag). From there, the 20-minute ferry to Cruz Bay is inexpensive and very pleasant (one-way tickets for adults are $5, and for children, $1; luggage costs $2 per bag). When you land at Cruz Bay, your journey is almost over -- just one more cab ride to Maho Bay. Be sure to ask for a taxi driver known as Mr. Frett. He meets the ferries from Red Hook and offers a significantly discounted rate for Maho guests, about $8 for one person (other drivers will charge $20). He cut us an even better deal since we were a family with kids. Luggage will cost a few extra dollars.
How to save on snorkeling: St. John has extraordinary snorkeling thanks to its clear turquoise waters, and you can launch into it from any of the island's beautiful white-sand beaches. We bought inexpensive gear in advance (about $15 for kids, $35 for adults), which saved us the cost and hassle of finding rentals and allowed us the freedom to snorkel off a different beach every day, either at Maho Bay or a short cab ride away.
Getting around for less: Car rentals on the island are expensive: as much as $100 a day. We saved the cash and opted for an occasional taxi. We rode with Mr. Hamilton, a local with a lilting accent and a signature straw hat, who offers several excursions around the island each week. He's friendly, knowledgeable, and filled with entertaining words of wisdom. He told one fellow traveler, "Waterproof sunblock works great, unless it gets wet!"
Best thrifty items to pack: We brought along a refillable water bottle for each of us. Our thirsty bunch each drinks at least 6 bottles a day, so if we'd purchased water for roughly $2 a bottle at the store, we would have spent up to $420 for the week!
Cheap eats: Food in the Caribbean is extremely expensive, so we saved at least $50 a day by eating breakfast and lunch in our tent or at the beach. Each tent cottage at Maho is equipped with a cooler, and you replenish the ice every other day at around $3 a bag. We filled an entire suitcase with a week's worth of cereal, dried pasta, peanut butter, jam, dried fruit, crackers, nuts, and powdered drink mix. We bought bread and milk at Maho Bay's small convenience store. (Maho also offers a clever "help yourself" cabinet and refrigerator where visitors leave behind extra food and other items when they check out -- everything from milk to shampoo to books.) Dinner was our only splurge. We enjoyed delicious meals and watched exquisite sunsets at the Pavilion, Maho's open-air, cafeteria-style restaurant. Entrees run $14 to $22 for adults; kid-friendly choices, such as mac and cheese, pizza, and chicken tenders, are about $8. There's always a vegetarian option and a salad bar.
Fun (and free) evening activities: Maho Bay's nightly glassblowing demonstrations left our kids mesmerized. We also loved the stargazing expeditions led by a National Park Service ranger. And we rarely missed the free popcorn at Happy Hour, from 4:30 to 7:30 each evening (November through May only). But perhaps our favorite family activity was dancing to live island music several nights a week at the Pavilion. On St. John, you'll find the best things in life -- swimming with sea turtles, swaying to a calypso beat on a moonlit night -- really are free!
