A natural landscape with unparalleled beauty, Ely, Minnesota is a wonderful weekend getaway for the entire family. Discover the sights and sounds of Mother Nature at her best in this small, hidden gem of a town.

EXPLORE THE BOUNDARY WATERS

For families who love the rugged outdoors and enjoy watching animals in the wild, the tiny town of Ely, Minnesota, is a north woods paradise. Considered the gateway to the Boundary Waters Canoe Wilderness Area—a million acres of dense forests and 5,000 lakes, ponds and streams—Ely was once the stomping grounds of French voyageurs and fur trappers. And despite the small cluster of businesses there today, the town retains its original untamed character. Fall is the perfect time to visit because the woods turn Technicolor bright, the bugs and the summer tourists disappear, and you can enjoy average daytime temperatures in the 50s. (Nights are chilly, so pack appropriate gear.)

Start your weekend by setting up camp Saturday morning at Bear Head Lake State Park (sites with showers, $15; 218-365-7229) on the shores of 674-acre Bear Head Lake.

Afterward, go fishing or hike in crimson-tinged forests. In the evening, rent a canoe at the park ($8 for four hours or less, and $16 a day) and savor a sunset paddle on the lake. If you keep your eyes on the shoreline, with its many inlets and coves, you'll have a good chance of seeing moose or deer, or a bald eagle soaring overhead. Frequent moose sightings are also reported on Echo Trail/County 116, a road lined with bright red maples, canary yellow aspen and shimmering white birches (nice for an afternoon or evening drive). To cap off the day, stop at one of the markets in town for hot dogs, rolls and marshmallows, and have a cookout back at your campsite. (In addition to camping, Ely has a few hotels. Rooms at the Grand Ely Lodge, for example, start at around $100 nightly for a family of four; 800-365-5070.)

On Sunday, sign up for a guided canoe trip into the Boundary Waters. Arrange this before your vacation so the outfitter can get the right permits. We like the friendly folks at Tom & Woods on nearby Moose Lake (a guided one-day trip with shore lunch costs $185; daily canoe rentals are $26; 800-322-5837). Whether or not you go with a guide, the shop can provide everything you need, from life preservers and maps to fishing gear and food.

Landlubbers can head to the International Wolf Center (adults, $7.50; kids ages six to 12, $4; 800-359-9653) to learn about the mysterious and often-misunderstood wolf. At the museum, you can push buttons to hear wolf cries, learn about a wolf's family life and also peek at a resident pack of wolves. During evening wolf howls, you'll study wolf communication, then head out to a nearby forest to exchange calls with the wolves. (Staff at the center say the wolves howl back about 30 percent of the time.)

If you crave creature comforts, drive to town for a bite. The Minglewood Cafe; serves tasty breads, soups and sandwiches (218-365-3398). The shop can pack your meals to go so you can head back to camp and dine along the shoreline, serenaded by loons.

For more information, contact the Ely Chamber of Commerce, 1600 E. Sheridan St., Ely, MN 55731; 800-777-7281.



Diane Bair and Pamela Wright write from their office in Newburyport, Massachusetts.

Please keep in mind that phone numbers, addresses, and prices are subject to change. Updated August 2005.