Wedged on the northern tip of the Monterey Peninsula between its more glitzy neighbors--Pebble Beach and Carmel to the south, Monterey to the east--Pacific Grove has managed to retain an uncrowded, hometown feel. P.G., as locals affectionately call it, is a place where parking is free, black-tailed deer wander through pine-shaded yards, monarch butterflies gather in local parks each fall and families return every chance they get.

The coastline--almost all of it unobstructed by development--is Pacific Grove's glory, and winding paths make its surf-swept coves accessible to walkers and cyclists. Sea lions and harbor seals sun themselves on offshore boulders, sea otters snooze in kelp beds, pelicans dive for fish and, perched across the road, gabled Victorian bed-and-breakfast inns provide touches of man-made splendor.

One favorite spot is called Lovers Point, where a grassy park with picnic tables looks out over twin crescent beaches and a spectacular stretch of Monterey Bay. Toddlers love it, squealing with excitement at the sea lions barking in the water, and so do older kids who can scramble on the huge rocks and scan the horizon for passing whales. In summer, vendors will rent you kayaks, bikes or in-line skates, allowing you to paddle, pedal or glide to new destinations.

Please keep in mind that phone numbers, addresses, and prices are subject to change. Updated August 2005.