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A Nature Retreat

A south Florida getaway teeming with life

by Chelle Koster Walton

CHEECA LODGE, ISLAMORADA

Set on Islamorada, in the sea-surrounded islands of the Florida Keys, Cheeca Lodge ushered in a new era of ecology consciousness for Florida resorts. In the late 1980s, when the 27-acre resort underwent a $33 million makeover, it turned its attention to the Keys' fragile environment and took some daring steps toward preservation. Measures to save water, including optional daily linen and Xeriscaping (low-maintenance native landscaping), soon put Cheeca into the role of environmental educator.

The Camp Cheeca recreational program concentrates on introducing kids ages six to 12 to the distinct natural qualities of the Keys. The teaching is sneaky; the kids think they're just having fun feeding fish in the lagoon, casting a hook into the sea (all catches are identified and then released, of course), snorkeling in the reefs and dipnetting for treasures along the water's edge. Crafts and games are geared toward learning about local critters and plants, and how to prevent harm to either. The resort staff arranges canoe excursions at nearby Long Key, boat tours to unbridged sanctuary keys and field trips to the Dolphin Research Center.

Aside from organized activities, families can take a self-guided tour along Cheeca's own mile-long nature trail, learn why the gumbo-limbo is called "tourist tree" and discover which native plant produces chewing gum. As part of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, local waters yield a diver's fantasy of sea life--angelfish, barracuda, octopi, conchs and Florida lobsters. Diving instruction, equipment rentals and trips are available. A complete menu of other water-sports rentals and charters--from sea kayaks to fishing boats--puts families in direct contact with the elements. But no jet skis or other personal watercraft are allowed as these can damage the grass flats where fish feed.

Off property, families can explore nature at John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, where snorkeling and glass-bottom boat tours provide the most popular ways to discover the magic of the Keys's aquarium-clear waters and reefs. Or you can explore the park's ancient swamps, where you'll run into those peculiar trees with legs. In Florida, they call them mangroves, the source of marine life. Nearer to the resort, an aquarium called Theater of the Sea allows families to interact with creatures of the deep and lets them swim with dolphins. A day trip away, you'll find the east entrance to Everglades National Park, where you can hike, bike, canoe and tour Florida nature at its rawest. The massive preserve--home of the endangered Florida panther and American crocodile--covers 2,100 square miles and shelters more than 600 types of fish and 300 bird species.

Cheeca Lodge has 203 rooms and suites. April 23 through December 23, rooms start at $129. Children under age 16 stay free when sharing a room with adults. Camp Cheeca operates from 9am-4pm. The cost is $38 for the full day or $25 for a half-day. Call (800) 327-2888 or (305) 664-4651 for updated rates and schedules.

Chelle Koster Walton is the author of FLORIDA FAMILY ADVENTURE GUIDE Frommer's BEST BEACH VACATIONS: FLORIDA and FLORIDA ISLAND HOPPING: THE WEST COAST.

Please keep in mind that phone numbers, addresses, and prices are subject to change. Updated June 2005.

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