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Beach Vacation: Jekyll Island, Georgia

by Barbara Nielsen
Beach Vacation: Jekyll Island, Georgia

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One of a string of barrier islands along Georgia's Atlantic Coast, 12-mile-long Jekyll Island once served as a private retreat for America's wealthiest families. Today, the island is owned by the state of Georgia, with just 35 percent of its land open to development. The result is a laid-back mix of beach attractions, maritime forest, marshes, and a National Historic Landmark District with a grand Victorian hotel and millionaire "cottages."

My family decided to visit Jekyll after hearing about it from a neighbor. We learned that the island was friendly, uncrowded, and reasonably priced. With activities like bike riding, canoeing, beachcombing, and playing at the waterpark, it sounded like the perfect place for a summer escape.

We arrived on Jekyll in the afternoon, checking into the beautifully landscaped Clarion Resort Buccaneer, set on the sea with a swimming pool and boardwalk trail -- nightly rates from $109 to $149 per room and $125 to $149 for efficiencies; (912) 635-2261. First on the agenda: the beach, where our son, Patrick, and his friend, Zack, both age 12, bodysurfed in the waves while my husband, Pat, and I waded near shore. After drying off, we decided to visit the Tidelands Nature Center, home to an interesting collection of local marine mammals --$1 for visitors ages 2 and up; (912) 635-5032. We especially liked Bob, a young loggerhead sea turtle (already weighing in at a hefty 30 pounds), and a touch tank with whelks, hermit crabs, and funny little hog-choker fish that wiggled and hid under the sand.

Dinner that night was a sunset affair at Blackbeard's Seafood Restaurant, a waterside eatery with tall sea oats waving outside the windows -- (912) 635-3522. We ended the evening with a starlit stroll along the beach. The boys were amazed to discover that drawing in the sand left glowing trails -- a phenomenon caused by disturbing tiny phosphorescent organisms.

The next morning, we went fishing at the Clam Creek Picnic Area on the island's northern end. After a picnic breakfast overlooking the sunlit marsh, the boys cast their lines. We also explored beautiful Driftwood Beach, where we met a group on horseback -- Victoria's Carriages; one-hour trail rides, $35 per person for ages 8 and up; (912) 635-9500.

More than a million gallons of water at the Summer Waves provided a rapid and wet change of pace -- adults, $16.95; kids up to 48 inches tall, $14.95; children ages 3 and under, free; (912) 635-2074. We spent the afternoon riding rafts and shooting down tubes, with the boys rating Pirate's Passage the absolute best. "It's so fast, you go airborne!"

The highlight of the day, however, was an 8:30 p.m. Sea Turtle Walk led by The Sea Turtle Project -- adults, $6; kids ages 12 and under, $4; reservations required; (912) 635-4036. After watching a short film on the life cycle of loggerhead turtles, we followed two naturalists down to the beach hoping to see a massive female lay her eggs. To our amazement, we were lucky in our quest.

For our last night, we splurged on a stay at the famous Jekyll Club Hotel, built in 1886 for America's elite --nightly room rates start at $188; (800) 535-9547. We all loved the storybook quality of the grand hotel, complete with a circular tower, wraparound veranda, and seemingly endless corridors and stairs. We tried our hand at croquet on the hotel green, swam in the palm-shaded pool, and pedaled bikes through the Historic District, where we marveled at the mansion-size "cottages." We also took time to explore the small shops and to immerse ourselves in the past at the Island History Center, which offers guided tours of the Historic District -- tram tours are $10 for visitors ages 18 and up, $5 for children ages 6-17; (912) 635-4036.

Please keep in mind that phone numbers, addresses, and prices are subject to change. Updated August 2005.

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