Montreal, located at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and Ottawa rivers, has a decidedly French feel and a European charm. While it's a great city for walking, Montreal can also be blustery and frigid. On one January trip, we experienced cold on a whole new level--somewhere below -10 F, the point at which no one wants to get out of the car or even the hotel room.
Save the city for late spring, summer and autumn, when you can enjoy the gardens, the parks and the street life. Old Montreal (Vieux-Montreal), a historic area, has narrow lanes and cobblestone streets. Museums here include the Chateau Ramezay Museum (514-861-3708), which depicts life in the region in the 18th century.
For children, much of the spirit of the city is found outdoors. Lingering in sidewalk cafés--good places for your kids to sample real frites (french fries)--is a time-honored tradition, and the people watching is prime. Jugglers, violinists, mimes and other street performers are frequently found here, especially near Place Jacques Cartier, a lively square. Or you can catch Le Bateau-Mouche (514-849-9952; 800-361-9952), a sight-seeing riverboat similar to the ones that ply Paris' Seine, for a 1-hour narrated cruise. The windblown mix of scenic islands and city skyscrapers offers a pleasing respite in a day of busy sight-seeing.
The Old Port, a renovated harbor area, is great for families. Along with an IMAX theater, flea market and children's theater, this lively area sports cafés, a playground, an observation deck atop the Clock Tower, and a life-size labyrinth. Bicycles are for rent, as are quadracycles, four-wheeled vehicles with benches that make it easy to take young kids along. Cycling, a passion in Montreal, peaks during May's Tour de l'Île de Montreal. The nice part is that this bicycling marathon, attracting 45,000 pedalers, is more display than competition; the emphasis is on participating. At the end of May, you can treat your kids to the sight of waves of two-wheeled enthusiasts departing at 15-minute intervals for the 65-kilometer (40-mile) island tour. If your children like bicycling, they can sign up for the Tour des Enfants, usually held end of May or early June. The Tour is a 25-kilometer (15-mile) route just for children ages six to 12; entrance fee is $8 USD. The fee for the 40-mile ride on May 31 is $13 USD for adults and $7 for kids ages 14 and younger.
That's just some of the outdoor life in Montreal. You can spend most of the day on Île Sainte-Hélène, an island in the St. Lawrence River. There are swimming pools, picnic tables and La Ronde, an amusement park noted for the world's highest wooden double-track roller coaster. For younger children, the park has kiddie rides. In June, La Ronde hosts the international fireworks competition. On each Saturday night, different countries light the skies with blasts and bursts timed to musical compositions.
The Olympic Park (514-252-8687), site of the 1976 Summer Olympics, delights kids with the views from its 623-foot-high Olympic Tower, which can be reached by tram. From the Olympic Park, it's easy to take a shuttle to the not-to-be-missed Botanical Gardens (Jardin Botanique; 514-872-1400), the second largest in the world, after Kew Gardens. With 30 gardens and 10 greenhouses, it's too much for some kids to see in a day. Pick and choose the special places that please your family. Favorites of ours included the Chinese Garden, with its miniature trees and 30-foot waterfall, as well as the Japanese Garden, with its koi ponds, bridges and bonsai. The Insectarium, included in the admission to the garden, proved both icky and intriguing with its thousands of living and mounted insects.
Near the Botanical Gardens is the Biodôme (514-868-3000), an environmental museum that recreates four different ecosystems--the tropical forest, the Laurentian forest, the St. Lawrence marine world and the polar world--using indigenous plants and animals.
If you still have time, two museums just outside the city are worth the trip. The Canadian Railway Museum (450-632-2410), located in Saint-Constant, about 15 miles southwest of the city, delights train aficionados with its collection of steam locomotives, trams and railway cars. (On Sundays, there are train rides.) The Cosmodôme, in Laval, about 10 miles northwest of the city, delivers an out-of-this-world experience. At the Cosmodôme's Space Science Center (450-978-3615), kids can walk through a space shuttle, look at a moon rock and learn with interactive exhibits. But what's really special is the Cosmodôme's Space Camp. Overnight and extended programs are available to parents, children and school groups; day visitors (ages nine and older) can sign up for half-day programs (reserve in advance) to sample simulators that emulate "weightlessness" and the bouncy jumps of a moon walk.
With so much to do, and so many outdoor attractions and parks, your kids aren't likely to be bored in Montreal.
LODGING
Montreal has a variety of accommodations. The Hospitality Canada (514-393-9049; 800-665-1528) is a free service that books reservations at most of Montreal's major hotels.The Hotel Novotel (514-861-6000; 800-NOVOTEL) includes breakfast and lets kids under 16 stay free; rates from $159 Canadian ($129 U.S.).
The Delta Montreal (800-877-1133 in the U.S.; 800-268-3777 in Canada) has rooms and suites, two pools and a Children's Creative and Activity Center. This is not a children's program; it's a supervised room where, for a nominal fee, parents can leave kids ages three to 12 for up to 3 hours. Kids six and under eat free at the hotel; rates from about $120 U.S.
For more information, contact the Greater Montreal Convention and Visitors Bureau (800-363-7777; 514-873-2015).
Candyce H. Stapen is the author of GREAT FAMILY VACATIONS NORTHEAST, GREAT FAMILY VACATIONS WEST and SKI VACATIONS WITH KIDS.
Please keep in mind that phone numbers, addresses, and prices are subject to change. Updated July 2005.
