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As a Cannon Beach sunset turned the sky fluorescent peach, my daughter, Josie, age ten, and her best friend, Felicia, 11, shouted, "Look what we found!" Inside their green sand pail swam four big beetle-shaped crabs. "I don't know what they are, but I find them every year," Felicia said excitedly.
My husband, Tom, and I have frequently heard about Felicia's Cannon Beach adventures (her family comes here often). She and her parents enthuse about miles of gorgeous coastline that's perfect for tide pooling, sand-castle building, and kite flying. It also offers delicious seafood, economical lodging, and a charming downtown. So when we decided to take a beach vacation, this small town about 75 miles west of Portland was our first choice. Felicia even came along as our guide.
Our first full day started early, as dictated by an 8 a.m. low tide. We spent the morning at the foot of the town's landmark, a 235-foot-high volcanic formation called Haystack Rock. Here, every low tide reveals a wonderland of sea creatures. During summer months, volunteers from the Haystack Rock Awareness Program -- (503) 436-1581 -- help visitors explore the tide pools, pointing out sea slugs, sea anemones, sea stars, limpets, and more. The girls were also delighted to spot nesting tufted puffins above us on the rocks.
Hungry from our adventures, we made our way to Mo's Restaurant -- (503) 436-1111; Mo's Restaurant -- famous for its clam chowder and oceanside setting. Josie declared the chowder "yummy," and lots of people agree: The six-restaurant chain cooks half a million pounds of chowder per year!
As a splurge, we booked an oceanside horseback ride with Sea Ranch Stables -- (503) 436-2815, 415 Fir Street; one-hour rides start at around $40; reservations must be made in person; age minimums vary; Sea Ranch Stables. With two wranglers as guides, we trotted down the shoreline to Chapman Point, home to the world's largest colony of common murres. Through binoculars, the birds looked like flying penguins as they swooped over the offshore rocks feeding their nestlings.
The next morning, we went to a local breakfast favorite, the Pig 'N Pancake -- (503) 436-2851. Then we sallied forth to spend the afternoon in Seaside -- (888) 306-2326 -- a bustling beach town about eight miles north of Cannon Beach. We rode a carousel at the Carousel Mall -- (503) 738-6728) -- sampled a few of the 170 taffy flavors at the Candyman -- (888) 738-5280 -- and best of all, visited the kid-size Seaside Aquarium -- adults, $6.50; kids ages 6 to 13, $3.25; (503) 738-6211. There, we fed the comical seals, learned the life expectancy of sea anemones (about 50 years), and identified the crustaceans the girls had found on the beach. According to an attendant, they're called mole crabs, because of their habit of tunneling under the sand.
Summer days are gloriously long in Oregon (the sun doesn't set until after 9 p.m.), and we were determined to make use of every hour. We explored the ever-changing shoreline until almost dark. As another flamboyant sunset lit the sky, I said, "Maybe we should come back here next year." The girls didn't hesitate: "Great idea!"
Please keep in mind that phone numbers, addresses, and prices are subject to change. Updated July 2005.
