Three green tortoises sunning themselves in the middle of our path eye us suspiciously without moving. And the brown pelican, standing in the shade, ambles behind us, his wings flapping like a loose sail. Just ahead, a green monkey chatters and swings in a mahogany tree, and peacocks prance under the boughs of a breadfruit tree. At Barbados' Wildlife Reserve, my teenage daughter Alissa and I are surrounded by free-roaming animals. The reserve, dedicated to the conservation of the Barbados green monkey and other animals, is just one of the island's hidden treasures.
Barbados has wonderful beaches and island sophistication, but its natural attractions are what keep us coming back. In Barbados we can meander through lush tropical gardens, explore caves, dive in a submarine and savor an undeveloped coastline, as well as enjoy some great beaches. While the island is known for pricey resorts such as Sandy Lane, it has lots to offer families, including several reasonably priced, family-oriented accommodations.
Each time we're on the island, we return to the Flower Forest (Richmond Plantation, 246-433-8152). The 50-acre garden, about an hour's drive from Bridgetown, blooms with hundreds of lush tropical flowers. The air smells sweet with the scent of hibiscus and bougainvillea. Tall palms tower over ferns, and scores of bird-of-paradise stalks, their flame-red and orange flowers delicately suggesting flight, dot the landscape. We wind through groves of breadfruit and banana trees, heading to the 850-foot-high cliff to admire the expansive view of the sea.
Just a mile away, Harrison's Cave intrigues with its stalactites, stalagmites and underground waterfalls illuminated by colored lights. At six years old, Alissa was equally impressed with the electric tram that carries passengers underground. The big beware: Don't visit when the cruise ship passengers are ashore, or you can wait hours to see the caves.
A glimpse into another kind of underworld is provided by the Atlantis Submarine (246-436-8929 or 800-253-0493). No children under three feet tall are allowed. This recreational sub provides a diver's-eye view of the sea, descending to depths of 150 feet. From our porthole we see schools of rainbow-colored parrot fish, yellow tangs, and blue and green wrasse. Minutes later a lazy sea turtle floats by. For nonswimming children or those too young to snorkel, the submarine literally provides a window into the dazzling world of sea life. Despite feeling queasy by the sub's surface bobbing as people come aboard, we always come back for another dive.
Alissa and I are avid snorkelers, so we take to the sea at Folkestone Underwater Park, north of Holetown, and follow the underwater snorkeling trail around Dottin's Reef. Little kids and those who don't feel comfortable with a mask can take a glass-bottom boat ride. The on-site aquarium, though small, has a display of sponges, coral and photographs of marine life that pique kids' interests. Cruisers land by the busload at Folkestone; don't visit when they do, or the only things you're likely to see swimming in the water are scores of black flippers.
Another attraction--and the island's most scenic drive--is East Coast Road, an eye-catching stretch of undeveloped beach. Breaking waves and a rocky coast are on one side of the road, and banana plantations, mango trees, cane fields and green hills are on the other side. Driving here gifts us with a sense of space. East Coast Road is unmarred by hotels, condominiums or big restaurants. The sunlit seascape, lush green fields, and the sound of crashing waves energizes us.
The big boulders on the beach signal Bathsheba, also called the "soup bowl," a favorite spot for accomplished surfers. We pull over to watch a pair of surfers ride into the shore seemingly without effort, pushed by the curl of a wave. It's a tradition to lunch at Bonita's Bar and Restaurant. The sign is tiny and sometimes nonexistent, so look for the parked cars in front of a plain village home across the street from the beach. Located on the second floor, Bonita's looks more like someone's simple dining room than a restaurant. We're told Mick Jagger and Paul McCartney eat here when they're in town, although we've never seen them. The glitterati as well as locals come for the home-style West Indian menu of chicken curry, Spanish rice, fried plantains and baked chicken.
No matter how tempting, do not swim along the East Coast Road; the waves are strong and so is the undertow. The West Coast beaches are the best for swimming. Church Point and Mullins Beach, two favorites of ours, have soft white sands, gentle slopes and barely visible waves. After cooling off in the clear turquoise waters, Alissa and I relax in the shade of a sea grape tree, enjoying our island retreat.
Please keep in mind that phone numbers, addresses, and prices are subject to change. Updated June 2005.
