There are certain summer places that inspire a fierce loyalty in vacationing families, special destinations whose pleasures transcend the mere basics of sun and sand. These are the kind of getaways where you can slow down and savor the season's rituals and where kids drift off to sleep each night planning their next day's adventures. In short, places that feel like old friends. On the undiscovered shores of Door County, Wisconsin, lies a series of quaint little towns boasting beautiful beaches, scenic bluffs and the best frozen custard for miles. If you enjoy the good life, search no more, it's right here in Door County.
OLD WORLD WISCONSIN
At the White Gull Inn, a popular restaurant in the Door County town of Fish Creek, the action was about to start. Even though we've been to a fish boil many times, my husband, 10-year-old son, Gregory, and I never tire of the drama of this local tradition. As we sipped cool drinks, we watched the cook light a fire under a cauldron. Soon, the water boiled and the cook poured chunks of native whitefish and potatoes into the cauldron and fed the flame with kerosene. The pot boiled over, clouds of smoke billowed upward, and families, ours included, jumped up to take snapshots of the fiery spectacle. This old Wisconsin custom ended with us all enjoying a hearty meal (the boiling over removed the fish oils from the pot, keeping the meat light and tender), topped off by a slab of cherry pie packed with local fruit. This was just the kind of delicious ritual that made Door County a time-tested vacation spot for my family.
Touted by many as the Cape Cod of the Midwest, the 80-mile-long peninsula, which juts out of mitten-shaped Wisconsin like a thumb, has charms distinctly its own. Among them are 250 miles of beautiful beaches, bike paths, historic lighthouses, scenic bluffs and fragrant cherry orchards. And the county's small towns--with names like Egg Harbor, Fish Creek and Sister Bay--are just as fetching. Settled in the mid-1800s by Scandinavians and Belgians, the communities display their heritage in the lace-trimmed windows and flower boxes that adorn the tidy clapboard shops and restaurants along the main streets. On a hot, sunny day, we like to stroll through town, taking in the scene while licking cones filled with creamy frozen custard.
You don't need to head to the East or West Coast to find pristine beaches--they abound in Door County. Peninsula State Park, a 3,775-acre forested haven in Fish Creek, has some of the prettiest, including plenty of secluded spots that make you feel as if you're swimming in your own private lake. (A one-day park pass costs $5 per vehicle; $10 for out-of-staters. Call 920-868-3258.) At Nicolet Beach, you can rent a paddleboat or kayak and venture into Green Bay, then satisfy your appetite with pizza and ice cream at the beachfront concession stand.
Our family's favorite activity at Peninsula State Park was biking the five-mile Sunset Trail, which winds through lush forests, a flower-filled prairie and past gorgeous views of the lake. We brought our own bikes, but you can rent them at Nicolet Beach, Edge of the Park, Inc. (920-868-3344) or Nor-Door Sport and Cyclery (920-868-2275). The path led us to the eastern edge of the park, site of the picturesque 130-year-old Eagle Bluff Lighthouse, which visitors are invited to explore. (Tours are offered every half hour from 10 A.M. to 4:30 P.M.)
When we wanted a break from summer crowds, we headed across the peninsula to Cave Point County Park, on the east coast in Sevastopol. The park was blissfully uncrowded--and free. We liked to watch waves crash against craggy grottoes and to hike trails along the rugged limestone cliffs. (They're exhilarating and steep, so we kept an eye on Gregory.)
Of course, no vacation is complete without a ferry trip. We rode the Washington Island Ferry Line from Northport to Washington Island, where we took an open-air tram tour and stopped to buy fudge and explored the Nature Center, located in an old schoolhouse. (Call 920-847-2546 for rates and info.)
Please keep in mind that phone numbers, addresses, and prices are subject to change. Updated August 2005.
