Like most adventurous types, I like to head off the beaten path when traveling. But sometimes -- especially when road-tripping with kids Maddie, age 12, and Henry, 10, in tow -- the well-trod trail will do just fine. One such trail leads from our home in Milwaukee two hours northwest to the Wisconsin region fondly known as the Dells. Centered on the towns of Lake Delton and Wisconsin Dells, this 20-square-mile midwestern vacation mecca truly offers something for everyone, be they fudge-shop fans or serious bird-watchers. Maddie loves the area's famed water parks, Henry loves the boat rides, and we all love the breathtaking natural beauty of the glacier-carved gorges and sandstone formations along the Wisconsin River and Lake Delton. But visitor beware: the Dells is chock-full of places all too eager to separate tourists from their money. Over the years, we've discovered the restaurants and attractions that are not only tons of fun, but also a good value for the dollar, from a bountiful breakfast buffet to the best mini-golf course.
TAKE IN A SHOW
We know we're getting close to the Dells when we start seeing signs for the Tommy Bartlett Show -- a 55-year-old family entertainment tradition. Tucked along the shores of Lake Delton, this not-to-be-missed attraction combines clowns and comedians with thrilling feats by water-skiing acrobats and high-powered boats. There's even a laser light show during evening performances. Shows are 90 minutes long and run several times a day during peak summer months ($15 for adults, $8 for kids 6 to 11 years old, free for kids 5 and under if held on an adult's lap). 608-254-2525; tommybartlett.com
GO FOR A FLOAT
The views of the world-famous Cambrian sandstone cliffs along the Wisconsin River have been attracting visitors for going on 150 years. A two-hour float with Dells Boat Tours is both exciting ("Look, a bald eagle!") and educational (who knew the Ho-Chunk Indians crossed the river here?). The cruise makes two stops, one at Witches Gulch, where we follow a wooden walkway through narrow crevices in the cliffs to an ice-cream stand, and then another at famed Stand Rock, where we watch a trained dog leap over a 5-foot gap, the same feat captured on film in 1888 by pioneering photographer H. H. Bennett ($16 for adults, $8 for kids ages 6 to 11). Boat rides open mid-March, weather permitting; 608-254-8555; dellsboats.com
DO THE TOWN
Originally one of the main streets of Kilbourn City, today's Broadway Street and riverwalk have the feel of a beach boardwalk, minus the beach. We usually taste some fudge, shop for postcards, or pick up moccasins. In the Bavarian Village, we rest our feet at the clock tower, which comes to life with a musical Pied Piper animation every hour. On summer evenings, jugglers, musicians, and magicians take to the streets from 7 to 9.
