Niagara Falls is in my blood. My grandparents honeymooned there in 1928, and my parents, sister, and I first watched spotlights bathe the falls in sherbet colors in 1976. For the past two summers, my daughter, Cady, age 8, son, Hudson, 5, husband, Bryan, and I have made the pilgrimage to this 12,000-year-old wonder (which includes Horseshoe Falls in Canada and American Falls and Bridal Veil Falls in the United States) and the fun, touristy attractions that surround it. And we were hardly alone: up to 12 million visitors annually flock to the action-packed Canadian side of the falls, bringing with them lengthy border crossings, high prices, and constant crowds during the summer. Happily, we've learned that by venturing away from the tourist district, we can enjoy lovely parks, offbeat attractions, and historic forts. Here's our most recent itinerary, plus (on the next page) the scoop on worth-the-price activities and free things to do.

WORTH THE $$$

Niagara overflows with touristy attractions. Spend your entertainment budget wisely at these picks (prices in Canadian dollars; U.S.$1 = CAN$1.17 at publication):

Bird Kingdom   With some 500 free-flying tropical birds, this massive aviary reminded us of the film set from Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom. Prices: $15 adults; $10 ages 4 to 12

Louis Tussaud's Waxworks   At this Clifton Hill hot spot, Batman, Johnny Cash, and Tom Cruise willingly posed with us.
Prices:   $13 adults; $7 ages 6 to 12

Maid of the Mist   Lines were long and the ride was short, but we felt part of history when we donned rain gear and floated past the falls on an attraction popular since 1846.
Prices:   $14 adults; $9 ages 6 to 12

Niagara Parks Butterfly Conservatory   The world's largest glass-enclosed butterfly exhibit makes an excellent rainy-day stop.
Prices:   $11 adults; $6.50 ages 6 to 12.

Niagara Totem Pole and Woodcarving Park   Here, we played mini golf among 500-plus whimsical, hand-carved totem poles, the work of one obsessed man.
Prices:   $7 adults; $5 ages 6 to 12

Niagara SkyWheel   When our gondola reached the top of the 175-foot-high wheel, we gasped at the panorama of the falls, illuminated by colored spotlights.
Prices:   $10 adults; $6 ages 10 and under

Whirlpool Aero Car   Built in the early 1900s, this cable car's 12-minute ride gave us an unforgettable view of the Niagara Whirlpool.
Prices:   $11 adults; $6.50 ages 6 to 12

TOTALLY FREE!

Fireworks Shows   Catch them from the Maid of the Mist Marketplace every Friday and Sunday night from mid-May to early September at 10 p.m.

Niagara Glen Nature Reserve   Wear hiking gear and trek into the river gorge.

Niagara River Recreation Trail   Bike a 35-mile paved path.