The next morning, we hopped on our bikes again and pedaled to the plantation's Nature Center, home to sea urchins, hermit crabs, and other island creatures. The center and its programs are worth checking out even if you're not staying at the plantation. We had fun investigating the tanks and talking with the staff naturalist who told us about a Crab Grab in the marsh that afternoon, one of many nature programs available to guests and nonguests ($5 for kids ages 4 to 12, free for kids ages 3 and under; some programs are free for accompanying adults, others start at $7.50; call for reservations, 800-874-6878).
When we arrived at Walker's Landing for the Crab Grab, we were excited to see a 4-foot-tall great egret waiting for us. "That's Walter," said our guide, as she wrapped thick chunks of pork onto strings, "and he's hoping for a handout." The day proved to be a slow one for blue crabs, who nibbled craftily at the pork without letting us catch them. Still, we enjoyed the warmth of the sun, the salty marsh breezes, and the peaceful lapping of water against the docks. For dinner that evening, we made the short drive to the other end of the island and Amelia's only town, Fernandina Beach. There, we ordered fresh seafood at Brett's Waterway Cafe (904-261-2660), where patrons have the option of sitting outside on the wraparound balcony overlooking the marina.
After dessert, we ventured into Fort Clinch State Park for a candlelight tour of the old brick fort, which was occupied by Union forces for most of the Civil War. (Tours begin half an hour after sundown on Friday and Saturday nights during the summer months; reservations required; 904-277-7274.) Patrick loved every minute of this step back in time led by the gruff, uniformed Sergeant Berninger, who offered the new recruits hardtack, "plain or with weevils," and shoes in two sizes, "too big or too small."
To better explore Fernandina Beach, we moved to the Hampton Inn, which overlooks the harbor and was built to blend in with the town's Victorian architecture. (Rates at the Hampton Inn begin at around $99 for a hotel room and around $139 for a suite, including breakfast; 800-HAMPTON.) It was a short stroll from there to historic, tree-lined Centre Street, where old brick storefronts house everything from sidewalk cafés to souvenir and specialty shops. Patrick's favorite was ZZ Toys (904-277-3319), which sells kites and other beach toys. He also liked the koi ponds in front of the Ship's Lantern (904-261-5821), a souvenir shop guarded by a life-sized statue of "Copper" Jack Aury.
Hungry from our strolling, we stopped for deli sandwiches at the Cuban-style courtyard La Bodega (a block off Centre Street at 19 South 3rd Street; 904-321-1922) before driving to Main Beach, just two miles from the harbor via Atlantic Avenue. Known as one of the best places on the island for finding fossilized shark's teeth (due to the tides, currents, and dredging in a nearby channel), the beach was dotted with people sharing tips and showing off their finds. Two tricks we learned: search at low tide, and dig shallow holes where the waves meet the shore.
We ended our island getaway with a splurge--a sunset sailing cruise on the Voyager, an authentic replica of an 1840s schooner (904-753-2388, Voyager Ventures). The boat's large, handsome sails snapped in the wind as we sailed from the harbor and out to the Atlantic, passing Fort Clinch and various Amelia sights along the way. Patrick and the ship's other young sailors got to help raise the jib and steer in calm waters before we returned, under a canopy of stars, to shore.
Travel writer Barbara Nielsen and her family live in Baton Rouge, Louisiana.
Please keep in mind that phone numbers, addresses, and prices are subject to change. Updated August 2005.
