Trees with legs, a big pink bird that eats with a spoon, and crabs with three eyes but no claws. Who made up this place, anyway? Dr. Seuss? Try Mother Nature--at her most whimsical and flamboyant. This place is Florida, and no, you're not at a theme park. Florida still has enough natural green space around to offset man's attempts at improving upon it. Much of it lies in remote areas far from modern resorts. But in south Florida, the Sanibel Inn not only accommodates families close to nature spots, it also encourages and enriches a Florida wildlife experience right on the property itself.

SANIBEL ISLAND, FLORIDA

North of Naples, Sanibel Island has long been known as a refuge--for birds, animals and stressed-out souls alike. Recently, the Sanibel Inn decided to take its own conservationist role more seriously. It sank $1.2 million into changing the resort's image from a balmy, palmy enclave of frivolity to a serious eco-resort. Where Sanibel Inn brochures once pictured coconut trees tossing beachside in the breeze, they now position as their centerpiece the defoliated trunk of a dead palm tree. Why? Because the dead tree hosts bugs. And birds feed on bugs. The tree symbolizes the concept behind Sanibel Inn's new landscaping scheme: Invite the wildlife in by replicating Sanibel's various levels of habitat. Last summer, a family of flickers took up residence in the dead tree. Pileated woodpeckers came to feed in the winter. On the beach, new vegetation rebuilds dunes and makes gopher tortoises feel at home. The resort's entrance takes the shape of upland habitat, with live oaks and a riot of flowering periwinkles, lantana, pentas and gaillardia.

The 8-acre resort's newly remodeled accommodations buildings are each color-coded, named and landscaped for native or naturalized flowers. A process of education has become part of the new image. Literature and special programs explain to guests why they may see bugs and chewed upon vegetation instead of manicured lawns and perfect gardens. The Sanibel Inn has stopped using harmful pesticides and has introduced wildlife themes into their recreational programs. On Earth Day 1996, the resort involved guests in planting beach vegetation. The annual event has since been expanded. Experts from local conservation agencies have been invited to speak. Kids' activities for ages three to 12 zero in on the resort's natural aspects. "Bugs Don't Bug Me," for instance, takes them on a safari for the multilegged; "Professor Futternutter's Butterfly Buddies" helps them spot zebra long wings and other species in the resort's butterfly garden; and "SSSnakes Are SSSuper" endears them to the island's lesser-loved creatures. Other programs teach families about native gardening, alligators, turtles, lizards and birds.

Since half of Sanibel Island is devoted to wildlife refuges, families find ample opportunity for getting in tune with nature while out on their own. The kahuna of Sanibel refuges, J.N. "Ding" Darling National Wildlife Refuge, comprises more than 5,000 acres of wetlands where birds come by the flock. Brown pelicans seem to defy gravity, balancing on the tiniest mangrove branches. Snake-necked anhingas hang their wings out to dry. Ospreys pierce the deep quiet with their territorial shrieks. Pink long-legged birds ladle up marine food with their beaks, showing how they got their name, "roseate spoonbill." Manatees, alligators, river otters and bobcats, too, call the refuge their habitat. See it by tram, canoe, foot or bike. Sanibel Inn guides its own Wildlife Bike Safari through the refuge.

Nature lovers can explore further at the Sanibel-Captiva Conservation Foundation's nature center and riverside trails. Kids love the climb-upon manatee, wildlife blocks, touch tank and alligator jaw. The foundation also conducts naturalist-guided beach walks and boat trips to remote islands. Down the road, learn more about beach life away from the beach at the Bailey-Matthews Shell Museum, with games and interaction suited to families.

The Sanibel Inn has 94 rooms, including one- and two-bedroom suites and condominiums. The hotel rooms and the suites have small refrigerators, coffee makers and microwaves. The condominiums have full kitchens. Call (800) 237-1491 or (239) 472-3181 for updated rates and schedules.

Chelle Koster Walton is the author of FLORIDA FAMILY ADVENTURE GUIDE Frommer's BEST BEACH VACATIONS: FLORIDA and FLORIDA ISLAND HOPPING: THE WEST COAST.

Please keep in mind that phone numbers, addresses, and prices are subject to change. Updated August 2005.