It's tradition now: every time my husband, Tom, our 12-year-old daughter, Josie, and I return to Monterey, we celebrate our arrival by heading to the beach. This lively city about halfway up the California coast offers an abundance of beaches, from pocket-size strands along the municipal waterfront to secret coves just south of town. But it's Monterey State Beach, with its sweeping views of the pine-strewn peninsula, that's our favorite starting point. There, digging our toes in the sand, we talk about everything we want to do, both the new and the familiar.
The focal point of any visit is the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary, one of the world's largest with 276 miles of shoreline and 5,322 square miles of ocean (831-647-4201; Monterey Bay.) That's why our beach-laid plans always start at the Monterey Bay Aquarium (Monterey Bay Aquarium ); 831-648-4888). This spectacular indoor/outdoor facility is home to more than 300,000 plants and animals, including sea otters, jellyfish, and shorebirds. To avoid crowds, we like to arrive at opening time, then explore for a few hours before breaking for lunch at the self-service cafe.
Outside the aquarium is Cannery Row, a historic sardine-packing district turned commercial center. Although you can still make out the blocky cannery architecture, years of renovations have turned it into a pageant of both the kitschy and the classic, with a full complement of shops, restaurants, hotels, and museums. Our favorite oddball attraction, Steinbeck's Spirit of Monterey Wax Museum (831-375-3770), offers a toned-down version of the town's raucous past and John Steinbeck's 1945 novel, Cannery Row.
When it's time to explore the coast, we head for the famous Monterey Bay Recreational Trail (Adventures by the Sea rents surrey bikes; 831-372-1807; Adventures by the Sea). A picturesque two-mile pedal south takes us to Lover's Point, a popular coastal spot in Pacific Grove with a protected cove that's a favorite of families with little kids. The return trip offers an interesting study in the contrasts that make Monterey so unique--storefronts, stoplights, and other signs of metropolitan infrastructure for the peninsula's 140,000-plus residents are tastefully set against the rocky, wildlife-inhabited coast. As a couple, Tom and I frequently chose to vacation as far away from development as possible, but as parents, we've learned that kids often thrive on urban action. Fortunately, Monterey offers the best of both worlds--Tom, Josie, and I can enjoy a cove kayaking trip, then reward ourselves ten minutes later with gooey sundaes from Cannery Row's Ghirardelli Soda Fountain and Chocolate Shop (831-373-0997; Ghirardelli).
Monterey is also rich in history. A one-mile drive or free shuttle hop (MST Online) north along the waterfront leads to Fisherman's Wharf. Here, families can browse for souvenirs, sample free clam chowder at the Old Fisherman's Grotto, or charter a bay cruise (boat companies along the pier offer a variety of tours, from one-hour samplers to all-day fishing trips; Monterey Wharf ). The adjacent Custom House Plaza has a pleasing collage of historical buildings, open space, coffee shops, and small museums. Interactive exhibits at the Pacific House Museum in Monterey State Historic Park recount Monterey's days as the capital of Spanish and Mexican California (831-649-7118; California Parks ); across the plaza, the Maritime Museum of Monterey reels kids in with treasure hunts (831-372-2608; Monterey History).
A walk east, past the galleries and variety stores of Alvarado Street, is Cooper-Molera Adobe. Inside the walled grounds, kids can check out barns (Josie likes visiting the sheep), gardens, and a visitors' center. On Tuesdays, Alvarado Street is transformed into Old Monterey Market Place, a world-class farmers market brimming with bakery goods, fresh produce, food stands, and more.
With so much to see and do, we're never quite ready to leave. But when we learned that it's a local tradition to watch the sun set at Asilomar State Beach, a few miles south of town, we knew we'd found the perfect finale for another fantastic vacation in Monterey.
Shore Bets--Area hot spots you don't want to miss
Get an in-depth look at the Bay on a half-day Monterey Bay Whale Watch tour (831-375-4658; Go Whales).
For sweeping coastal views, hike the short Skyline Nature Trail at Jacks Peak County Park Monterey Parks.
There's no better way to end a day on Cannery Row than with a splurge at The Fish Hopper Restaurant (831-372-8543; Fish Hopper); for deals, try the early diners' "sunset menu").
On a Monterey Bay Chocolates factory tour, families enter to the smell of chocolate and exit with a sample (831-899-7963; Monterey Bay Chocolates.)
Kids can craft their own jewelry on Cannery Row for under $5 at Let it Bead (831-373-2323; Let It Bead).
For the best pizza in Monterey, head to Gianni's (831-649-1500).
Lodging options: On our last visit, we discovered the newly remodeled Monterey Bay Lodge, which offers family suites within walking distance of the popular Dennis the Menace Playground (nightly rates from $134 for a family of four; 800-558-1900; Monterey Bay Lodge). The Beach Resort, Monterey, with its oceanside rooms, is also a favorite with our family (nightly rates from $119; 800-242-8627; Monterey Beach Resort). Just out of town, the Asilomar Conference Grounds offers beach access, free breakfast, and a great setting (from $116 nightly for two; $12.19 for kids ages 3 to 12; 831-642-4242; Visit Asilomar).
For links to lodging packages and discount coupons, go to Monterey Info).
