After flying from mainland Ecuador to San Cristobal island, we were shuttled to the the ship that would take us island-hopping for the next four days. When we arrived, groups of slick sea lions were literally hanging about the dock. Balanced like acrobatic clowns on the sterns of moored dinghies, they barked a greeting. We, in turn, mimicked back throaty gulps and arfs and, with that comic dialogue, began our sea-life safari.
The Galapagos Islands, 600 miles off the shore of Ecuador, have a dreamlike aura. A wildlife sanctuary and the home of Charles Darwin's famous finches (the keys to his theory of evolution), this archipelago of fifteen major islands sustains not only unique species but also remarkably friendly ones. Galapagos creatures have evolved without predators and subsequently have no fear of people, which makes for some thrilling close encounters. The first morning at sea, we awoke to a frigate bird perched captainlike atop the mast, a pelican on the bow, and a school of luminescent pink groupers floating starboard, to which Alissa and the other kids on board eagerly threw a breakfast of bread crumbs.
After we finished our own breakfast, we disembarked on Espanola Island. Sea lion pups frolicked in the tide pools, while their parents lounged head-to-belly on the sand. Scores of red-and-green-spotted "Christmas" iguanas, fat as house cats, hugged the gray rocks, soaking up the sun, and flashy red crabs scuttled from crevice to crevice.
Led by Carlos, one of our naturalist guides, we hiked through knee-high vegetation. At one point, we literally had to step over a sea lion pup that had wiggled her way into our path. Animals often came so close that it was tempting to pet them, but, as Carlos reminded us, touching is prohibited.
Where the cliffs meet the sea in a spray of waves, we discovered the Boobery, home to scores of the approachable and comic birds known as boobies. We maneuvered delicately around their nests and gawked at the famed blue-footed variety, whose neon blue feet would be the envy of any teenager. Espanola Island, which fairly teemed with wildlife, turned out to be our favorite island. On most of the others, we saw fewer fauna. I thought Alissa might be disappointed in the walk on Santa Maria Island, which consisted of much talk about birds, a peek at a row of sea turtles half-submerged in water, and a stop at a lagoon of pink flamingos. "Not!" she said. "It's cool just to watch the flamingos. In a zoo, they don't seem real. Here, they're free and independent."
Before the trip, I worried that Alissa, the daughter of a travel writer and a devotee of cruise ships with elaborate kids' programs, might be bored on a ten-cabin motor yacht whose only entertainment was watching wildlife. Much to her surprise, Alissa found the smaller-scale voyage a nice break and a good opportunity to interact with fellow voyagers in ways not possible on a mega-ship. "It was neat to get to know the captain and crew," she said. "They showed us the engine room and how to steer the boat. We played Dookie by Green Day for them, which they had never heard. We showed them Seventeen and Teen magazines. Carlos even translated some of the articles."
Our most memorable cross-cultural treat, though, was swimming with sea lions. We visited the islands during their hottest period, January through April, when temperatures stay in the mid-70s and 80s and there's intermittent heavy rain. (The rest of the time, temperatures are slightly lower, and days are marked by heavy mist.) The summer seas were warm enough for swimming without a wet suit, which meant lazy days of beach fun and snorkeling.
One afternoon when we jumped into the water, a playful pair of sea lions slid off the rocky slopes to join us. As we swam, they dove under us, cut loops behind our backs, then suddenly reappeared yards down the beach. After we got tuckered out and retreated to sit in the shallows, a young pup with friendly brown eyes and fluttering whiskers came jiggling over to us. When we kicked our legs and splashed, he wiggled his flippers and barked. We kept on kicking and he kept right on wiggling, until finally he slipped away. It was in such amazing, simple encounters that Alissa and I discovered the unforgettable magic of the Galapagos Islands.
The M/Y Letty, on which the author and her daughter cruised, sports ten small cabins, each with a private bath. The Galapagos Network offers four-, five-, and seven-day cruises on boats of varying sizes. The best ship for families is probably the larger Corinthian, which offers a variety of cabins and more opportunity for kids to make new friends. Rates for four-day, three-night voyages start at around $1000 per person and include all food and activities. Kids ages 11 nad under receive a fifty percent discount. The trip is not recommended for children under age 7. Call 800-633-7972.
Please keep in mind that phone numbers, addresses, and prices are subject to change. Updated July 2005.
