Long before The Tyler Place on Lake Champlain became my favorite family resort, it was the favorite of my friend Elizabeth. When she explained why she thought we also would have a great time there, many of her reasons came under the heading Guilt: Freedom From. "You don't have to feel guilty for spending time apart from your children, because they're so happy doing their own stuff," she said. Elizabeth told me that her boys loved eating with other kids, and that she and her husband loved having grown-up--even romantic--meals. "Also, the food is fabulous, and you can eat as much as you want without feeling guilty because there are so many opportunities to work it off." Like what? "Like 20-mile bike rides--we went on a couple of those, including one into Canada--like swimming laps in the pool, like canoeing on the lake, although, come to think of it, my husband did most of the paddling. And, oh yes, I played a lot of Ping-Pong with the kids when the children's program wasn't in session. The whole thing reminded me of summer camp."

Luckily, I didn't share that particular reaction to The Tyler Place; during a stay in June several years ago, I was a much happier camper than I'd ever been at the grim camps of my childhood. The Tyler Place was prettier, for one thing. Located in northern Vermont on 165 acres of Lake Champlain shoreline, it consists of 27 white cottages scattered about beautiful stretches of lawn. There's also a central inn, which houses the dining room, the cocktail lounge and a dozen suites.) The food was delicious, in contrast to the camp chow of my memories; the staff was more accommodating; all the many activities were strictly voluntary; and my bunkmates were quite a bit nicer.

I had brought two 10-year-olds with me to The Tyler Place--my daughter, Kate, and her friend Jane--and it's no exaggeration to say the girls were in heaven from the moment we arrived until I dragged them away a week later. With the other kids in the preteen program (one of eight separate age groupings), they boated, swam in both indoor and outdoor pools, biked and botanized. They also--and this activity was recounted with particular glee-- pushed their fully clothed water-sports counselor into the lake. Now there, I thought, is a kids' program that really understands its customers.

After a previsit phone conversation with Pixley Tyler Hill, a member of the family that founded the resort in 1933, I wasn't surprised that we ended up so happy. She reassured me that, yes, they did have kids' bike helmets to go with the free bikes and even baby-size helmets for the bike-seat set. This place really has its act together, I thought. And so it does. If your child should become sick, for example, a trained parents' helper will entertain and care for him until he's well enough to rejoin the children's program.

In terms of service, The Tyler Place is a luxury resort; the accommodations, while entirely comfortable and suffused with a certain rustic charm, are best described as Early Hodgepodge. This was perfectly okay with us. Unless your happiness depends on marble bathrooms with Jacuzzis, probably it will be okay with you, too.

OPEN:

Late May through Mid-September

BEST TIME TO GO:

Summer

BEST RAINY-DAY ACTIVITY:

At the first drop, free passes are offered to nearby health clubs and tennis centers.

BEST PARENTS' NIGHT OUT:

Don't miss DJ night. I won an award for identifying the most mug shots on the cover of The Best and the Brightest.

BEST PERK:

There's a small rental charge for a ten-speed bike, but a three-speed, which is my speed, can be checked out free of charge.

BEST DAY-TRIP:

I didn't go, but that bike trip to Canada was a real crowd-pleaser.

BEST WAY TO RELAX:

Repose in a white Adirondack chair, shaded by evergreens, and gaze out over Lake Champlain.

For current information, call 802-868-3301 or write to The Tyler Place, Box 1, Old Dock Road, Highgate Springs, VT 05460.

Please keep in mind that phone numbers, addresses, and prices are subject to change. Updated July 2005.