In the spring, as the spirit of adventure beckons families away from the city, my wife, Karen, my son, Steve, and I like to head for greener pastures. In 1994, we set out north along the Hudson River on a weekend safari--away from the bustle of Broadway traffic, the subways, and sirens, and into the country. From the top of the stony Palisades that rise above the western bank across the river, New York City looked no bigger than Lilliput. For two days the three of us walked between bobcats and beavers, saw Geronimo's rifle and a mastodon's skull, and took in the A.M. revitalizing fragrance of magnolias in bloom. We made the acquaintance of a one-winged peregrine falcon named Lefty at an unusual zoo, and by the time we returned to Manhattan, Steve was one of the few city kids we know who had seen a newborn calf stand on wobbly legs for the very first time.
SATURDAY
9:30 A.M. ALPINESTATE LINE OVERLOOK
After crossing the George Washington Bridge into New Jersey, we followed the Palisades Parkway north as it snakes through volcanically formed basalt cliffs that rise 300 to 500 feet above the west bank of the Hudson River. New leaves on the oaks and maples fan overhead like a green umbrella. Near the north end of New Jersey's Palisades Interstate Park watch for the State Line Overlook--it offers panoramic views, a refreshment stand, and restrooms. The three of us hiked a quarter of a mile on Long Path, the rocky trail that hugs the top of the cliffs at the Lookout. Three miles wide and to the north, the Hudson flows beneath the Tappan Zee Bridge. It's a good thing none of us is afraid of heights. (There is a one-hour parking limit but no fee.)
10:30 A.M. BEAR MOUNTAIN
BEAR MOUNTAIN STATE PARK
The parkway takes you into New York state, and near its north end, Bear Mountain State Park sits on 50,000 acres of Hudson highlands. Here, you can rent two types of boats and either pedal or paddle across pristine Hessian Lake. Along the miles of park trails, hikers encounter abandoned iron mines and rock shelters built by Native American tribes some 4,000 years ago. We drove Perkins Memorial Drive to the top of Bear Mountain and climbed the 70-foot-tall tower, with Steve racing in front. The New York skyline and Long Island Sound jumped into view, some thirty-five miles south. Ranger Tom informed us that the spectacular view to our right was the Pennsylvania countryside, and that the mountain directly across the river is called Anthony's Nose. "Hey, it's even bigger than your nose, Dad," said Steve with a grin. (Call 914-786-2701; parking fee.)
11:15 A.M. BEAR MOUNTAIN
TRAILSIDE MUSEUM AND ZOO
The next stop was the Trailside Museum, home to an unusual assortment of rescued birds and mammals that, although indigenous to the area, would not survive on their own in the wild. Here we were introduced to Lefty, the one-winged peregrine falcon, and Cody, an eastern coyote who, as a pup, followed a local German shepherd home. We watched Mickey the black bear frolic with her cubs and learned that last Halloween they got pinatas filled with peanuts and marshmallows. Sam, a northern bald eagle, picked at her fish and chicken brunch. White feathers spiked her head, punk-rock-style. "How come she's not really bald?" asked Steve. The museum buildings lining the paths near the zoo house thousands of local specimens and artifacts--a mastodon's skull, fool's gold, arrowheads, and a link from a monstrous chain. Fort Clinton once stood on the site, and during the Revolutionary War, the chain stretched across the river to prevent the British fleet from sailing farther up the Hudson. (Call 914-786-2701 for business hours; free, but donations toward a proposed "Bear Gym" are appreciated.)
2:15 P.M. WEST POINT
UNITED STATE MILITARY ACADEMY
Upon entering the grounds of West Point, visitors immediately are struck by the air of formality--magnificent stone-faced barracks rise gray and somber against the sky, conversation is quiet and businesslike, and guards salute as you pass. Stop first at the Visitors Center and pick up a complimentary map of the grounds. There is a mock cadet's quarters here, kept in exact conformity to the rules outlined in West Point's Standard Barracks Arrangement Guide. Across the walkway from the center, West Point Museum features an impressive collection of wartime artifacts, ranging in vintage from the American Revolution to Operation Desert Storm. We came across General William Westmoreland's jungle fatigues and the last dispatch sent by General George Custer. Near the riverbank, Trophy Point, renowned for its million-dollar view of the Hudson, is encircled by more than 130 battle-worn cannons. Before leaving, check out Fort Putnam, a Revolutionary War post. (Call 914-938-2638 for general information and band concert and parade schedules.)
4:15 P.M. NEWBURGH
WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS, STATE HISTORIC SITE
Our next stop was home and headquarters to America's first commander in chief--George Washington. A tour of his eight-room residence takes visitors past an old desk and chair, where you can imagine him scripting orders (the Revolutionary War ended on orders issued from here), and through the unusual dining area referred to as "the room of seven doors and one window." This six-acre historic park also features an interpretive museum where you can view documents written in Washington's hand and examine artifacts, such as iron-tipped wooden spears (chevaux de frise) that had been set upright in the Hudson's riverbed in order to rip the hulls of approaching enemy ships. (Call 914-562-1195; open to the general public from mid-April through late October, or by appointment November through March.)
5:45 P.M. FISHKILL
HUDSON'S RIBS FISH
Try to arrive at Hudson's Ribs Fish before 6 P.M. or after 8:30 P.M. No reservations are accepted for parties smaller than six, and the restaurant is so popular with locals that arriving any time in between might mean a wait of an hour or more. You can choose from tangy baby back ribs, lemony chicken, and juicy, broiled scallops--and be sure to try the hot popovers served with homemade strawberry butter. For about $2 extra, combine two entrees on a single plate. A kids' menu offers smaller portions. (Call 914-297-5002.)
SUNDAY
9 A.M. FISHKILLSTANLEY'S EATERY
Stanley's Eatery, right at the Holiday Inn, offers a buffet with favorite breakfast picks, such as eggs and bacon, French toast, and home fries. The fresh fruit bar is a hit with kids. (Call 914-896-6281.)
10 A.M. SOMERS
LASDON PARK AND ARBORETUM
A short stop at Lasdon Park and Arboretum is the perfect initiation to spring. The hillside is colored with hundreds of red, white, yellow, and lavender azaleas, and the apple trees boast their fragrant blossoms. The formal gardens and pool provided the setting for the movie THE SECRET OF MY SUCCESS. (Call 914-232-3141.)
10:45 A.M. SOMERS
MUSCOOT FARM
A self-guided tour of a real working farm is another fine spring treat. Owned and operated by the County of Westchester and surrounded by New York City's reservoirs, Muscoot Farm is reminiscent of the early twenties, with its wooden-slatted corn crib, milk house, grape arbor, and blacksmith shop. We visited the turkey shed and then stopped in at the dairy barn, where our son seemed enraptured by the sight of a newborn calf. Your kids won't want to miss the brooder house, where newly hatched chicks stay warm under the heat lamps. (Call 914-232-7118; open from 10 A.M. to 4 P.M. daily year-round. Special events scheduled throughout the year include helping Farmer Joe with Saturday morning chores, as well as hayrides, sheep-shearing demonstrations, candy-making, and ice-cream churning. The farm is not a petting zoo, so kids are not allowed to touch or feed the animals.)
12:15 P.M. MOUNT KISCO
MARSH SANCTUARY
A network of trails at the Marsh Sanctuary allows you to meander through wild flower gardens, open meadows, and deep forest. We were advised that if we were quiet, there would be a good chance of spotting some white-tailed or mule deer. (Beginning in June, the number of human visitors significantly increases and the wildlife becomes more elusive.) Acting as a scout, Steve discovered some possum tracks, and a great blue heron screamed at us as we reached the edge of the swamp. (Call 914-241-2808; open from dawn to dusk year-round.)
2:30 P.M. RYE
RYE PLAYLAND
Steve's eyes widened as we pulled into the parking lot of Rye Playland. A national historic landmark, this forty-acre amusement park dates back to the twenties and features a game arcade, boardwalk, refreshment stands, miniature golf, and more than forty rides. The Dragon Coaster, a wooden roller coaster, looms just behind the fence. Nearby is Playland's Carousel, its intricate wooden horses adorned with carved flowers and jewels. After we had our fill of spins and excitement, we decided to finish our weekend reprieve from the city on a quieter note. We followed the boardwalk up and down a quarter mile of sandy beach along Long Island Sound and skipped pebbles between the waves. (Call 914-967-2040.)
Please keep in mind that phone numbers, addresses, and prices are subject to change. Updated August 2005.
