In Toronto, it's almost guaranteed that your kids will become fascinated with shoes. Not because this modern, bustling city and financial center has a scenic Harbourfront great for strolling, and not because scores of parks sport "Please Walk on the Grass" signs. It's because of items like the clogs worn by 17th-century French peasants. The shoes, with their 4-inch spikes, could make my grunge-loving daughter, who wears storm trooper boots and a belly chain, covetous. The fearsome-looking footwear was used to crush chestnuts in order to extract the tannin needed to soften leather.
The nut crushers are part of the interesting items displayed at the Bata Shoe Museum (416-979-7799), the only one in the world devoted to footwear. Kid pleasers include the backwards-pointing shoes worn by smugglers in World War II Netherlands. The toes left a false trail, pointing in the direction opposite the one the contrabandists actually took. Also on display is celebrity footwear, such as John Lennon's black Beatles boot, Elton John's silver platform boots, Madonna's sequined, magenta heels, and Elvis' ("Who?" ask your kids) blue patent-leather loafers. Before exploring the museum, ask for the family shoe bag, a hands-on activities kit designed for kids ages five to 10.
The Bata Shoe Museum is just one of Toronto's surprises. Large enough to support major museums and a thriving theater scene, Toronto is a modern financial center with few of the hassles associated with big cities. It is safe, clean and family-friendly.
Two other must-see museums: The Ontario Science Center and the Royal Ontario Museum (416-696-3127). The science center has a Space Hall, where kids can ride in a rocket chair to experience weightlessness; a Sports Center, where kids can climb a rock wall and time their baseball pitches with a radar clock; and a rain forest with steamy tropical plants and a mini waterfall. The Royal Ontario Museum is certain to have something of interest for each family member. Walk through a bat cave, where 3,000 bats seem alive in the darkness; ogle mummies at the Ancient Egypt gallery; and stand next to the towering skeletons of prehistoric beasts in the Dinosaur Hall.
Toronto's CN Tower is reputedly the world's tallest free-standing structure. From the observation deck, the views are spectacular. On a clear day, you can see Niagara Falls. Kids especially like the glass floor, which allows them to feel as if they are floating atop the city. Attractions also include an airplane flight-simulator ride, an IMAX theater with a film about Canada, an arcade with scores of virtual-reality games, and new cafés.
If your kids play hockey or follow their favorite players on the ice, visit the Hockey Hall of Fame (416-360-7735). There are trivia games, a hockey simulator and memorabilia, including a collection of hockey masks and seats from famous stadiums.
From May through summer, be sure to enjoy Toronto's outdoors. Ontario Place, a bustling entertainment park on the waterfront, has much for families. Little kids like the Children's Village, with its playground and LEGO creative play center. Along with paddle boats, a miniature golf course, and a 6-story-high Cinesphere theater, Ontario Place also hosts frequent concerts and is the best spot from which to enjoy the Benson & Hedges Symphony of Fire, a fireworks competition held on select evenings in June and July.
On Centre Island, part of the 800-acre Toronto Islands Park, is the Centreville Amusement Park (416-203-0405), a treat for young children. The scaled-down version of a 19th-century Ontario village has a fire station and steam engines. Little ones also like the swan-shaped paddle boats and the petting farm, which has cows, geese and pigs. Along with a public beach--sunning only, as the water temperature hovers in the high 50s--Centre Island has miles of bike trails that connect to the other, more residential islands. Pack a picnic and pedal your way along the scenic, tree-lined paths. It's all part of Toronto's easygoing charm.
LODGING
The Delta Chelsea Hotel, 33 Gerrard St. West (416-595-1975; 800-877-1133) is Toronto's largest hotel, with 1,600 rooms. It has an activity center with supervised children's programs. Guests can enjoy a family area with a pool, sauna, fitness center, recreation room and several restaurants. Expect nightly rates to be at least $245 Canadian ($160 U.S.).For more information, contact the Metropolitan Toronto Convention and Visitors Bureau (800-363-1990; 416-203-2500).
Candyce H. Stapen is the author of GREAT FAMILY VACATIONS NORTHEAST, GREAT FAMILY VACATIONS WEST and SKI VACATIONS WITH KIDS.
Please keep in mind that phone numbers, addresses, and prices are subject to change. Updated June 2005.


