Families may differ on their ideas of what makes an ideal vacation, but when it comes to a beach trip, the formula is simple: great surf, long expanses of wide-open sand, maybe a boardwalk nearby, plus a full complement of kid-friendly amusements for when the weather turns sour. Still, a beach town should also have its own special offerings, from tide pools to taffy to small town charm. A visit to the classic New England fishing village of Ogunquit, Maine is one getaway you won't want to miss.
SEASIDE NEW ENGLAND CHARM
Last August, as my mom, ten-month-old daughter, Acadia, and I strolled across the pedestrian drawbridge in Ogunquit's Perkins Cove, we developed an instant desire for candy. Sure, we'd just eaten breakfast back at our hotel, but that didn't satisfy our craving for something decadent. Maybe it was the salt air. Or the fact that we were now officially on vacation. And then, as we wandered into the bustling Cove, which juts out into the sea like a finger headed for the cookie jar, it became clear. This little New England fishing village reminded me of the game Candy Land, where the buildings are made out of licorice and gumdrops.One of Maine's southernmost beach towns, Ogunquit is part of an appealing chain of friendly coastal communities (its immediate neighbors are York and Wells), all within a short drive of each other. It offers three miles of white sand beach, a mile-and-a-half-long oceanside cliff walk known as the Marginal Way and a walkable downtown filled with appealing specialty shops. We chose as our base camp the kid-pleasing Meadowmere Resort, which has two swimming pools, complimentary continental breakfast and a convenient location on the town trolley line (summer rates start at $154 a night for a family of four; 800-633-8718).
As we wandered by fishermen dropping their lines off the bridge, it was almost impossible to believe we were just 70 miles north of Boston. There wasn't a fast-food joint or arcade in sight, and shopkeepers greeted visitors with a warm "good morning." No wonder, we thought, as we watched a woman sketch the scene, that Ogunquit has long been a haven for artists--the town's name is an American Indian expression that means "beautiful place by the sea."
"Let me take your picture," my mom said, snapping the first of dozens of photos we'd collect during our "maiden voyage," the first three-generation vacation we'd enjoyed
without the guys. We followed some kids, their fists full of change, into Perkins Cove Candy, a family-run shop famous for its soft squares of homemade fudge (207-646-7243).
Snacking on caramel turtles, we wandered over to the wharf to watch the tour boats. "Daddy, I want to see lobsters!" a little girl said to her father, as they considered the various options. Finestkind Scenic Cruises granted her wish. On 50-minute tours, the company takes families out on a working lobster boat to see fishermen bait and haul traps (207-646-5227 for current rates and more info). While strolling, we met Deb Merritt, a mom of three who offers whale watching adventures aboard the Deborah Ann (Reservations required; 207-361-9501 for rates and info). "The thing I like best is hanging out on the deck with the kids," said Deb, as families lined up to get onboard. "Along the way, we see seals, dolphins, blue sharks and basking sharks."
As Cady pointed at the gulls soaring across the sky, we turned our steps toward Marginal Way, past fragrant wild roses, bittersweet and goldenrod, while the Atlantic smashed against the granite boulders in a foamy frenzy. In the inlets below us, we saw families playing in the tide pools, searching for sea creatures. While strolling, we kept an eye out for spouting whales, which, according to Deb Merritt, you can see in the distance on a clear day. From our vantage point, we could also watch hundreds of sunbathers lazing in the distance on colorful towels and the brave-hearted splashing in the surf. (The water is 60 to 65 degrees in summer, but that doesn't seem to stop folks.) By this point, we'd worked up an appetite. Since we planned to have lobster for supper, we decided to lunch on hot dogs--not just any hot dogs, but Flo's steamed dogs, smothered in special sauce. In addition to its dogs, this Cape Neddick landmark on busy Route 1 is famous for its curmudgeonly owner, Gail (not Flo), who runs the place with the grace of an army drill sergeant.
After lunch, we opted for a change of scenery and decided to drive to Mount Agamenticus, a trip that took us up winding Mountain Road to a quiet, wooded crest with a pony stable. The stable staff offers scenic trail rides, plus there are excellent trails for mountain biking and hiking. Cady enjoyed patting the mild-mannered horses and watching the older children trot in the corral (corral rides are around $5). At day's end, before we headed to a much-anticipated lobster feast, we decided to walk along Ogunquit Beach and let the cool water revive our tired soles. This time, we explored the river side of the beach, which is perfect for small children, who splash around in the tide pools at low tide. "I don't want to go home," said a young bather, whose mom was shaking sand out of her towel. Whenever I'm in Candy Land, I don't want to go home either.
Please keep in mind that phone numbers, addresses, and prices are subject to change. Updated August 2005.
