You don't have to be rich to savor the Caribbean's sun, surf and sand with your family--you just have to be savvy. Make paradise affordable and save the most dollars by seeking family-friendly destinations off-season. One spectacular getaway for the family that offers activity around the clock and a variety of natural and native wonders is St. Lucia in the British Virgin Islands.

When pressed, St. Lucians will admit that until recently, they were more concerned with growing bananas than cultivating tourism. And it's true that tourism has taken hold slowly here, perhaps because this British island is not your typical white-sand, calm-watered Caribbean jewel. With several dark volcanic beaches, acres of rain forest and geological wonders to wow the most jaded kids, St. Lucia is best suited for a family willing to climb into a Jeep, crank up the radio and cruise. Around every hairpin turn between Vieux Fort and Gros Islet are cozy towns, fishing villages, funky restaurants, banana plantations and beautiful bays to explore by foot or boat.

Compared to other Virgin Islands like Virgin Gorda and St. John, St. Lucia bustles day and night. On Fridays in Castries, the outdoor market hops with people selling baskets of coconuts, bananas and all manner of root vegetables for kids to puzzle over. North in Gros Islet, your family can join a game of dominoes at Natasha's Coffee and Wine Bar (make sure you learn the Caribbean technique of slapping down your domino--a long-practiced flourish--or you'll be pegged as a beginner). If you have older kids and the night is young, check out St. Lucia's soulful, eclectic local bands (kids are welcome on most dance floors).

BEACHING IT

St. Lucia doesn't have extensive coral reefs, but its emerald waters and bright tropical fish make snorkeling a treat. All of St. Lucia's beaches, even those on hotel properties, are open to the public, so the most economical way to snorkel is to drop in at any of the resorts lining the rocky west coast, rent equipment and swim on out. At La Toc Beach, near Castries, local families welcome visitors to join impromptu soccer games on the sand. Budget-minded travelers especially favor Pigeon Island National Landmark (admission is $4 per person). Besides its pretty beaches, Pigeon Point, as it's widely known, offers bird-watching, hiking, an eatery that serves cheeseburgers, and the chance to explore Fort Rodney and its cool, dungeonlike rooms.

DAY TRIPS

Driving on the left side of a winding road is the classic St. Lucia thrill. Jeeps cost from about $65 to $95 per day to rent at dealers such as Avis (758-452-2046), Budget (758-452-0233) and Hertz (758-452-0679). You'll also need to plunk down around $12 for a St. Lucian driver's license. For those who'd rather travel by sea, many local guides offer reasonably priced all-day sails. For around $50 per person, families typically get a home-cooked barbecue, cold drinks, snorkeling time and a trip into the rain forest. Tours depart from most major resorts, including the Wyndham Morgan Bay Resort (800-WYNDHAM or 758-450-2511). The front desk can make referrals. St. Lucia is a mother lode of fun for junior geologists. Inland from the Pitons, near the village of Soufrière, follow your noses to St. Lucia's dormant--but still fuming--Mount Soufrière. From the edge of the hissing 300-degree cauldron, kids can survey the stratified inside wall of the volcano crater.

Bathwater-warm waterfalls and refreshing mineral springs are hidden throughout the rain forest near Mount Soufrière. Families can traverse the lush territory on their own or hire one of the ubiquitous local guides who cheerfully offer to show visitors the sites (expect to pay a small fee for the afternoon). As you walk through the forest draped with bougainvillea and orchids, try to spot papaya, mango and sour sop (a tart, tropical fruit). The famed Diamond Botanical Gardens Waterfall and Mineral Baths, which has soothed tired travelers since 1785 charges around $3.50 per person to enter; and around $5 a piece to bathe.

DINING DEALS

St. Lucia abounds with inexpensive eateries that dish out American fare plus local treats. In Soufriare, try Camilla's Restaurant or The New Venture; in Marigot Bay, The Hurricane Hole; or in Castries, The Romantique Restaurant. (None of the restaurants has telephones, so just ask for directions.) Besides hot dogs and club sandwiches, the restaurants serve combination platters of fried chicken, rice and beans and avocado and cabbage salad.

LODGING

Located near popular Reduit Beach, The Rainbow Hotel (758-452-0148) is a well-run property with a pool, bar and dining room. Nightly room rates start at $160 in season and $115 in off-season. Kids under age 12 stay free.

Harmony Suites (758-452-8756) offers large suites with a kitchenette for $165 per night in season and $118 in off-season. The island's best and most affordable all-inclusive resorts (rates include food, lodging, tips, liquor, kids' programs and entertainment) are in the north.

Club St. Lucia (800-777-1250) is an all-inclusive family resort with two pools, a health club and buffet meals. Nightly rates for suites start at $287 in season and $216 in off-season. Kids under age 12 stay free with parents.

Wyndham Morgan Bay Resort (800-WYNDHAM) is a dignified retreat with excellent food. Daily rates start at $151 per person in season and $127 per person in off-season. Kids under age three stay free; those up to age 18 receive discounts depending on their age (maximum three people per room).

Please keep in mind that phone numbers, addresses, and prices are subject to change. Updated August 2005.