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Summer in Texas Hill Country

A perfect vacation from FamilyFun

by Barbara Nielsen
water park The first step in planning the perfect summer vacation is finding a spot that will keep everyone in the family happy from beginning to end. So we challenged our travel writers and their children to nominate places that are geographically distinct, loaded with cultural activities and most of all, fun.

Whether you prefer lounging by the seashore, camping in the wilderness or lazing in a tube on a sun-splashed river, we found a magical destination that appeals to a variety of tastes and interests. One of our top spots is New Braunfels, Texas, a laid-back, German-influenced town that offers profound natural beauty, dozens of recreational options and family-oriented food and lodging. To make the most of your visit to this area, read on for the inside scoop.

TEXAS HILL COUNTRY

Warmed by 80 degree temperatures and lulled by the gentle current, my husband, nine-year-old son, Patrick, and I lazily drift on inner tubes down the tree-lined Comal River. Dangling our feet in the water, we soak up the sounds of birds and the distant laughter of kids from around the bend. Every now and then, Patrick slides off his tube and plunges into the clear water or paddles ahead to talk with new friends. He returns, wet and grinning, ready to float again.

Two summers ago, after listening to a friend's rave reviews, my family and I discovered for ourselves the unrushed fun of the small, German-influenced town of New Braunfels, Texas. Set on the banks of two rivers just 30 minutes north of San Antonio, it's a safe, unspoiled place where you can tube right past your cabin, shoot down slippery water slides and just hang out. Laid-back, water-loving families have been coming here for generations, and it's common to find folks who have made the journey for 30, 40, even 50 years.

On our five-day vacation, we discovered the many reasons why. First, New Braunfels's rivers, the slow, spring-fed Comal and the swifter Guadalupe, provide hours of fun. Second, it's easy to get caught up in the town's Old World German flavor (there's a "Wurstfest" in the fall). Texas Hill Country, a rolling landscape of about 15,000 square miles just a half hour from town, offers horseback riding and hiking. And last but not least, New Braunfels is home to Schlitterbahn Waterpark Resort, which has entertained families for 20 years.

Although my family generally steers clear of theme parks because of the crowds, we all gave a thumbs-up to Schlitterbahn. Set on the Comal, the park is filled with trees and shady picnic areas. My family loved the genial staff, German architecture (castles and towers adorn the place) and, of course, the rides (our favorite, the Raging River, whisks you in a tube down a mile of twists and turns before splashing you into the Comal).

You can even stay on-site. Lodging at Schlitterbahn ranges from small, no-frills motel units built in the forties (which were updated after a devastating flood in the fall of 1998) to two-story townhouses. Rates for a family of four start at $135 nightly (830-625-2351).

While the spring-fed Comal is predictably smooth and safe, conditions on the white water Guadalupe frequently change. A local outfitter, Rockin' 'R' River Rides, can keep you updated on river currents and offers rafts, tubes and guided tours (an introductory trip costs about $95 for a family of four; 830-629-9999). If you prefer a landlubber's tour of the rapids, drive along scenic River Road, which crosses the river four times and takes you past rugged bluffs.

Another way to soak up the area's beauty is to picnic by the river. At Granzin Barbecue, we bought a takeout family four-pack containing ribs and a bucket of iced tea ($20; 830-629-6615), then traveled to Landa Park, on the banks of the Comal. We found a table by the large, spring-fed pool, and, after lunch, Patrick had fun swimming and playing on the Tarzan-style rope (the park is free; the pool costs $3 for adults and $2 for children ages 3 to 17).

When we wanted a break from water activities, we headed to Gruene (pronounced "green"), a restored greune ghost town on the banks of the Guadalupe just ten minutes from downtown New Braunfels. At the Gristmill Restaurant, which was once a cotton gin, we ate Texas-style dinners on an outdoor balcony shaded by a canopy of trees (entrees range from $7 to $14; 830-625-0684). Afterward, we strolled to Gruene Hall, the oldest dance hall in Texas (the cover charge varies depending on the performer; 830-606-1281). Folks from six to 76 congregate on the worn wooden floor to dance the Texas swing, and we found it easy to get caught up in the comfortable family atmosphere that's so much a part of the Lone Star State.

Please keep in mind that phone numbers, addresses, and prices are subject to change. Updated June 2005.

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