In autumn in Vermont, orange rows of pumpkins brighten farmers' roadside stands. Birch trees turn the color of spun gold, and, when the wind blows, the hillsides billow in soft ribbons of reds and russets. Even children—like my own—not known for their tolerance of long car rides, love a scenic drive along these country roads in fall, especially because there are lots of kid-pleasing stops along the way.
The place we visit for a classic New England getaway is Woodstock, Vermont, in the foothills of the Green Mountains, 31 miles east of Rutland. We're lured by the bucolic landscape, the easy hiking, the regional festivals and the picture-book pretty village, complete with restored 18th- and 19th-century homes, a village green and a covered bridge. But what makes this getaway especially "sweet" as my 15-year-old daughter, Alissa, has been pointing out for years, is that Woodstock also sports funky shops, sophisticated restaurants and even some night life.
In Woodstock we can enjoy rural delights without feeling rusticated. About 4.5 miles east of Woodstock, the Quechee Gorge, whose canyon-like cliffs descend 163 feet to the Ottauquechee River, is a dramatic site in any season, but especially so when the birch, maple and oak trees form a quilt of colors that stretch along the rock-strewn river banks. A favorite stroll of ours is the path that runs next to the river. The terrain is flat, the walk easy and the trail leads to a waterfall and an old mill. An added attraction: Quechee's annual Foliage Crafts Fair at Quechee Gorge Village, a shopping and dining complex. More than 75 craftspeople from New England sell furniture, quilts, jewelry, baskets and other handmade items.
There are many must-see attractions in Woodstock, including the Simon Pearce Glass Blowing at The Mill, the Billings Farm and Museum, and the Vermont Institute of Natural Science and Raptor Center.
Every fall, there are many special demonstrations and celebrations that tourists enjoy. Watch border collies herd sheep and workers demonstrate hand-shearing, spinning, carding and weaving on Wool Day. Press cider, make apple butter and craft apple dolls at All About Apples. Discover pumpkin lore and recipes, and ride hay wagons on Pumpkin Day. Kick up your heels at a barn dance, be part of a husking bee and try your hand at threshing grain at the Harvest Celebration, and listen to mystery stories, carve jack-o'-lanterns and sashay in a costume parade at Family Halloween.
A Woodstock visit wouldn't be complete without browsing the town's shops. The burg's main avenue, Central Street, features several blocks of boutiques and art galleries. Two we always browse are Who is Sylvia? and the Stephen Huneck Gallery. With vintage clothing the rage for preteens and teens, Who is Sylvia? is one boutique yours will appreciate. Many an "awesome" party dress has been found among the racks of gowns dating from the 1880s to the 1950s, from innocent white cottons to slinky and sequined "formals." I found a pillbox hat just like Jackie Kennedy (and my mother) used to wear as well as a fine linen tablecloth for those special occasions.
Even children who are blasé about art tend to like the Stephen Huneck Gallery. His whimsical dog and animal centered furniture, sculptures and woodcuts get a giggle. There are benches and tables anchored by dalmatians, cats and rainbow trout. Bring Fido along, too, as dogs are welcome and some of the artwork is thoughtfully mounted low on the wall for easy viewing by the family pooch. Outside, kids like posing with the carving of a man walking five wooden dogs on a leash.
Our shopping and sightseeing ends with a family tradition. We buy some homemade ice cream or muffins from the Mountain Creamery, then enjoy our goodies at the George Perkins Marsh Man and Nature Park. Unless you're looking for this oasis, you probably won't notice this small strip of land next to a brook, just steps (log ones of course) down from the busy main drag off the bridge that runs between 43 and 47 Central Street.
Woodstock offers an array of dining choices from the gourmet main dining room at the Woodstock Inn to take-out pizza parlors. To please our teen we arrive for a late dinner at Bentley's, the pleasant result of mixing a pub, a parlor and a party place. The fringed table lamps and Oriental rugs along with the Victorian sofas suggest an 1890s club, but come 10 P.M., the turn-of-the-century feel fades as the recessed ceiling is lowered to reveal, much to Alissa's delight, a dance floor.
That's typical of what we call the Woodstock "compromise." This is a town that offers spectacular country views and rural history, but wraps it in a sophisticated charm that sits well with urban escapees who don't want to get too far from good food, good shops and comfortable lodging.
Please keep in mind that phone numbers, addresses, and prices are subject to change. Updated July 2005.
